Craggy Cliffs & Clovelly - Trip to England Part 2

When at last, the sun came out, the cragginess (or crankiness) and coughs seem to subside.  But no matter what the weather, Cornwall, (the English Riviera) and the neighbouring Devon are spectacular counties in England and after living in British Columbia, Canada that is saying something.

Newquay

As I hacked into the wind, on a walk from to the village of Kilkhampton (lovingly known as Kilk) I thought on how lucky I was, despite my Cornish Cough, It was a Tuesday morning and I strolled past fat ponies in a fluorescent green valley, controversial yet silent wind turbines, an ancient church complete with graveyard, and a ginger cat.

Ginger Cat with Turbine in distance

Kilkhampton Church

Kilk Churchyard

The Post Mistress was obviously glad of the plexi-glass divide when I croaked out my request of international stamps, then turned my back on her to choke and cough digging into my bag for the cash and packet of fisherman’s friends.

“Alright love?”

I nodded, mid-hack.

“Is this a 20 pence coin?”

“Yes, love, you sure you’re alright?”
I nodded again, unable to string two words together and I uncontrollably went into a coughing fit and hurried out the door.

“The poor dear, she’s from Canada you know, Elsie.”  I heard her say upon my exit.

The next day, we took a trip to the village of Clovelly, which actually is in Devon but very close by.
Clovelly is a historic fishing village, and there is an entrance fee, but well-worth the cost, the reason being that the care, maintenance and upkeep to keep it in the style of the mid 19th century, involves traditional materials and craftmanship.

The Red Door is where the Life Boat is kept, the seas can get very rough here

Time stands still in Clovelly, and there are no vehicles allowed.  The last time I was in Clovelly I was twelve years old and my sister and I rode sad and tired looking donkeys down the cobbled streets. (Somewhere there is a photo, must find, I'm sure we doned bell-bottoms.) Its incredible to me now, that we survived because of  the slope of this road, and the slippiness!  I’m not exaggerating, if you are not wearing serious walking shoes, don’t even try walking down the hill to the harbour. I was wearing comfy boots with a slight heel, but wished I'd worn flats.  The only thing that has changed in Clovelly is that the donkeys are no longer used for rides or the carting of goods and materials up and down the cobbles, and it’s no wonder.  Today they use sleighs, the donkeys, however are still a part of life at Clovelly.  Like this donkey here who is posing purposely in place where his not so distant ancestors used to tow an actual Real Cart. Looks like this donkey is here purely for aesthetic purposes, I’m not sure what the others do, but they look very pretty.

Still looking a wee bit sad

Here's an example of the steepness and it's like this all the way, so I would be terrified to ride donkeys now with their slippery hoofs, maybe they used to have rubber shoes, I'm not sure.

Luckily there were many places to stop for Tea and Yummies.

And the locals were friendly, this one joined us for a piece of homemade doughnut.

There are many beautiful homes, hotels, restaurants and craft shops.  The Harbour itself is beautiful and almost looks warm enough to take a dip.  But in May, I didn't think I would try it.

Alana & I definitely want to return to Clovelly

Ahh, A donkey blog! 
 http://www.clovellydonkeys.blogspot.ca/

Craggy Cliffs and Accompanying Coughs – A visit to Cornwall in the UK

Another grey day, a bite in the air and of course, rain pending.  I shiver and the clouds collect in a big sky, the waves tumble towards the craggy cliffs with a roar followed by floating, smiling seabirds.

My daughter, Alana and I laugh and cough in unison into the wind, perched atop the Cliffside, clutching our scarves, wondering why we didn’t pack warmer clothing. 

Light headed with cold medicine, yelling to the men members of our family to stop balancing, fearlessly peering over the edge!  Why do they do that?

Each time I visit Cornwall in the U.K.  (my Mister’s homeland) the weather is absolutely god awful, and yet Cornwall is well-known for its sunny and mild climate, where Londoners flock for their mini  vacation time. 
 Despite the weather, this place is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places on the planet.  Many Canadians I know, never manage a visit to Cornwall, being so far south, broken from the rest of Britain by the Tamar River and just too much out of the way for most.  There is a pride in the people here who say, they are NOT English, they are CORNISH.  And in many ways there are Very different from the rest of the country and Yes, I will swear that this is SO. 

It is a land of Twisty Turny charming, narrow cobble stoned streets lined with ancient churches and crooked cottages.  Friendly faces greeting with a HiYa or You Alright?  Rolling hills, plump ponies, thick coated curious sheep, tiny dramatic fishing villages, spectacular white sandy beaches and craggy coastlines and most surprisingly it's a SURFER'S Paradise! 

And the food is so Diverse in a Harry Potter Weird kind of way.  Fantastic Indian Curries served in every Pub, Cornish Pasties with Vegetarian options such as, Blue Cheese & Broccoli (this is what I chose - Yum) also, Cheese & Onion and the traditional Steak, Onion & Swede.  Pasties are often locally referred to as oggies. At the Bodmin Parkway Railway Station one of their vegetarion options is, Peanut Butter, grated cheese and Banana Panini! Crikey! (Bit afraid of this one) 

And sorry, I love Fish but couldn’t bring myself to try the STARRYGAZEY pie either.

Television chef Rick Stein has long operated a fish restaurant in Padstow for this reason, and in 2006 Jamie Oliver opened his second restaurant, Fifteen Cornwall, in Watergate Bay near Newquay. One other famous local fish dish is Stargazy pie, a fish-based pie in which the heads of the fish stick through the piecrust, as though "star-gazing".
There are many portable businesses such as this place – Toasties and Tatties! 

 My new favourite snack is Haggis flavoured Crisps!  (Chips).  YUM!

CORNISH ICE Cream!  In a Cornish Fishing Village!

The Prize however for Strange FOODIE ODDITiTY, goes to a tinned dinner offered in a small supermarket in Kilkhampton outside of Bude, called “The Full Monty”

Description on TIN – Baked Beans in Tomato sauce with Large Sausages, potato chunks, button mushrooms, mini bacon steaks and a mini chopped and shaped beef and cereal cutlet. 
WTF?  Does anyone actually eat this for Supper?

Click and Watch below to view this magical land.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boNT46BMyWg&feature=player_embedded

THIS is ONLY Part 1 - Part 2 to follow  - I love this Land.