Suzanne Fitz Photos & Musings: Craggy Cliffs & Clovelly

When at last, the sun came out, the cragginess (or crankiness) and coughs seem to subside. But no matter what the weather, Cornwall, (the English Riviera) and the neighbouring Devon are spectacular counties in England and after living in British Columbia, Canada that is saying something.

Newquay

As I hacked into the wind, on a walk from to the village of Kilkhampton (lovingly known as Kilk) I thought on how lucky I was, despite my Cornish Cough, It was a Tuesday morning and I strolled past fat ponies in a fluorescent green valley, controversial yet silent wind turbines, an ancient church complete with graveyard, and a ginger cat.

Ginger Cat with Turbine in distance

Kilkhampton Church

Kilk Churchyard

The Post Mistress was obviously glad of the plexi-glass divide when I croaked out my request of international stamps, then turned my back on her to choke and cough digging into my bag for the cash and packet of fisherman’s friends.

“Alright love?”

I nodded, mid-hack.

“Is this a 20 pence coin?”

“Yes, love, you sure you’re alright?”
I nodded again, unable to string two words together and I uncontrollably went into a coughing fit and hurried out the door.

“The poor dear, she’s from Canada you know, Elsie.” I heard her say upon my exit.

The next day, we took a trip to the village of Clovelly, which actually is in Devon but very close by.
Clovelly is a historic fishing village, and there is an entrance fee, but well-worth the cost, the reason being that the care, maintenance and upkeep to keep it in the style of the mid 19th century, involves traditional materials and craftmanship.

The Red Door is where the Life Boat is kept, the seas can get very rough here

Time stands still in Clovelly, and there are no vehicles allowed. The last time I was in Clovelly I was twelve years old and my sister and I rode sad and tired looking donkeys down the cobbled streets. (Somewhere there is a photo, must find, I'm sure we doned bell-bottoms.) Its incredible to me now, that we survived because of the slope of this road, and the slippiness! I’m not exaggerating, if you are not wearing serious walking shoes, don’t even try walking down the hill to the harbour. I was wearing comfy boots with a slight heel, but wished I'd worn flats. The only thing that has changed in Clovelly is that the donkeys are no longer used for rides or the carting of goods and materials up and down the cobbles, and it’s no wonder. Today they use sleighs, the donkeys, however are still a part of life at Clovelly. Like this donkey here who is posing purposely in place where his not so distant ancestors used to tow an actual Real Cart. Looks like this donkey is here purely for aesthetic purposes, I’m not sure what the others do, but they look very pretty.

Still looking a wee bit sad

Here's an example of the steepness and it's like this all the way, so I would be terrified to ride donkeys now with their slippery hoofs, maybe they used to have rubber shoes, I'm not sure.

Luckily there were many places to stop for Tea and Yummies.

And the locals were friendly, this one joined us for a piece of homemade doughnut.

There are many beautiful homes, hotels, restaurants and craft shops. The Harbour itself is beautiful and almost looks warm enough to take a dip. But in May, I didn't think I would try it.